Power of the [Kampot] pepper

Importers bring Kampot variety to U.S., embrace Cambodian causes

By Tom Gordon, Special to the U-T 

utsandiego.com

Pepper is making a comeback as a crop in Cambodia. Cris Peterson photos

Pepper Project

The goal is to sell Cambodian products at a reasonable price with the proceeds going back to Cambodians. For recipes or to order Kampot pepper, go to www.pepperproject.org.

Kampot pepper, like the small Southeast Asian nation that produces it, has a tortured history.

First noted in the 13th century by Chinese explorers in Cambodia, the pepper became the toast of France in the early 1900s. Production was at its peak with the bulk of the crop being shipped to the best restaurants of Paris.

Pol Pot and the murderous Khmer Rouge arrived in the 1970s and dictated that the pepper farmers of southwest Cambodia grow rice. The farms withered, and farmers were relocated. Many died — along with as many as 2 million other Cambodians.

Today, Kampot pepper is making a comeback. Some 125 families grow it, and chefs, including celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain, sing its praises.

Accidental origins

My wife, Cris Peterson, and I live in Orange County, but we have been frequent visitors to Southeast Asia. About two years ago, we visited a small family-owned farm along a dirt road in Cambodia’s Kampot Province. We bit into one of the peppercorns and were amazed by its intense flavor and spiciness.

While purchasing pepper to take home, my wife asked the farmer how we could help him. His simple reply: “Sell our pepper in your country.”

One month after returning home, Cris was hit by a car while walking our dog. She suffered severe injuries: a broken leg, a shattered ankle, 90 stitches. Her big toe had to be amputated.

During her recovery, we hatched the idea for the Pepper Project.

The goal was simple — import Kampot pepper and sell it in the United States. With the first 30 pounds of Kampot pepper hauled through U.S. Customs in a suitcase later that year, we were ready for business. We have since added other Cambodian products: scarves, totes made from recycled rice bags and natural spa products.

Proceeds from the Pepper Project are donated back to Cambodia. Some of the proceeds go toward Daughters of Cambodia, a group that rescues young people from the sex trade.

The Kampot pepper comes in three flavors: black, white and red. 

Special flavor

“The aroma releases fresh, minty elements and a distinctive flavor,” says Chef Luu Meng, of Malis restaurant.

The pepper is only grown in the Kep and Kampot provinces of southwest Cambodia. It is certified organic.

Three flavors are available in the U.S.:

•Black is picked green and dried in the sun, then hand-sorted. It is the spiciest of the three.

•Red is a truly unique pepper. It’s fully ripened then sun dried and sorted.

•White is the mildest and comes from the red pepper that has been soaked in hot water until the skin falls away. It is then dried and sorted.

Cambodian Cucumber Salad

Makes 4 servings

2 large cucumbers

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon black or red cracked Kampot pepper

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

Cut cucumbers lengthwise. Sprinkle with salt on cut side, then place cut side down on paper towels to drain.

After about 30 minutes pat dry. Cut cucumbers into bite-sized pieces and place in bowl.

In another bowl combine remaining ingredients. Sprinkle mixture on cucumbers and toss to coat. Refrigerate.

Allow to marinate one hour before serving.

Kampot Pepper and Lime Beef Salad

Makes 4 servings

1 pound sirloin steak

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons cracked black or red Kampot pepper

2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 head of garlic, minced

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, divided use

2 tablespoons olive oil

Dash of fish sauce

Green leaf lettuce

1 onion, thinly sliced

Cut steak into bite-sized pieces.

In a bowl, combine sugar, pepper, soy sauce, garlic, red pepper flakes and half the lime juice. Stir well and add beef.

Marinate for at least an hour.

In skillet or wok, sauté beef in hot olive oil. Cook steak to desired doneness.

Add fish sauce and remaining lime juice to the beef and mix well.

Serve over bed of lettuce leaves and sliced onions.

Cracked black pepper is used in Rosemary Peppercorn Chicken.

Rosemary Peppercorn Chicken

Makes 2 servings

2 tablespoons cracked black Kampot pepper

2 cloves of garlic, finely minced

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, minced

2 boneless chicken breasts

Combine pepper, garlic, olive oil, salt and rosemary into a paste.

Rub evenly on both sides of chicken. Let chicken marinate for at least half an hour.

Grill or pan fry in olive oil.